Hey SewHere Fans, it’s Loni. Yes, that Loni. Here for a hostile takeover….NO, NO. Just visiting!
While the team is busy working on a few new drafting courses, Mallory asked if I might share some details on making an Easy T with a knit back. I’ve played with this approach because it adds some extra ease and comfort to a top that’s designed to be made with all woven fabric. But also, because I like breaking the ‘rules’. Though, as it turns out this simple variation is rumored to be Zede, Queen Sewing Boss Lady herself, -approved!
Got Your Pattern? Get Hacking!
Once you’ve got a good-fitting basic Easy T drafted, you can sub in just about any light to medium weight knit for the back. I’m thinking many sweater knits would also work. This opens up SEW MANY (pun intended, of course) new design possibilities. For the 2 tops shown here, I used double brushed poly spandex (DBP) for the backs.
I made no adjustments to my pattern pieces, cutting one front on the fold from a woven and one back on the fold from a knit for each. Construction follows the same basic steps as outlined in the Easy T course. One departure I like to take, though, is after joining the front and back at the shoulders, I serge the sleeve edge while it’s flat and then proceed to close the side seam.
Neckline Finishing Options
Now, you can finish the neckline in the same manner as described in the course, or add a new element in the form of a neckline binding.
I happened to have a scrap of jersey bias in the perfect magenta to accent my first top so I used knit for the binding, but you could just as easily use a woven cut on the bias. The procedure for this style of binding is much the same as French bias binding. A narrow binding (1- 1.5 inches wide) folded wrong sides together, is stitched to the right side of the neckline, then turned inward and edge stitched down. A more detailed discussion is found here.
Love that pop of color on the inside.
Alternatively, the binding will show on the outside of the neckline if you attach it first to the wrong side, which is what I did for my floral and stripe version. Since DBP has 4 way stretch, I was able to cut my binding perpendicular to the grain of the stripes and it adds a bit of visual interest.
Simple Change, Big Payoff
There you have it. It’s that simple! And as I said before, by mixing wovens with knits, not only are you more comfortable, but suddenly the whole other half of your stash is available to join in on the Easy T fun.
Still need to take the course? Sign up here.
And hussle them sewing buns of yours, because I hear the price is going up on June 15th, 2017.