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The Easy T is our online drafting course, where you draft a woven T-shirt according to your measurements. I call it the Easy T, because it’s an “easy fitting” garment, and it’s a great starting point for learning to draft your own garments.
Muslins and Test Garments
When you draft your own patterns or make a new pattern for the first time, it’s important to do a muslin or test garment first. A few of our members in the Self Sewn Wardrobe Group had the same issue with their first draft- the shoulder seam of the Easy T kept creeping to the back, and we figured it was do to a “rounded back”. Jacque was awesome and tested out my solution to the issue after bringing it up in the group.
If you have this problem, wear your shirt and take note of how far it creeps back from where the seam should sit at the top of your shoulder. Is it creeping back an inch? A half inch? This is the amount of fabric we’re going to add to the back pattern piece.
How to Alter Your Pattern for a Rounded Back
The Easy T is made up of two pattern pieces that are identical, except for the neckline. To accommodate for a rounded upper back that makes the shoulder seam creep backward, we need to add a strip to the back piece, like so.
Slash your back pattern piece horizontally within the sleeve area- this means that none of your other seams will need to be altered- it will also add a bit of extra ease to the sleeve area, which might be helpful if you have a rounded upper back. Tape a piece of tracing paper between the two pieces in the amount you think you need, which is however far back your Easy T was creeping. This is your new back pattern piece!
Try out this adjustment and see if it works. It worked for Jacque and a few other members!
Here’s Jacque “Before” her adjustment, see how the shoulder seam is sliding back?
Here’s Jacque “After” she made her Easy T Rounded Shoulder Adjustment
Why Does It Work?
If your upper back or shoulder slope or curve so that the shoulder seam slides back, then you need more fabric in your back pattern piece. Adding this extra “strip” to the back allows the shirt to flow over your curved back.
If you notice that this adjustment has made your sleeve too voluminous, you can take up your side/underarm seam a bit- but you’ll probably notice that this adjustment allows for better movement around your arms.
Purchase the Easy T Class for $24.99