The Easy T is our first online class, and for many people it’s been their first time drafting a garment for themselves. I’m so proud to be a part of that experience! Getting to know your body and understanding how it can translate to a flat pattern is important, if you want to sew your own clothes.
What is the Easy T Class and Pattern?
The Easy T is an online sewing class that you can access any time you like. It consists of modules on measuring, calculations, drafting, and construction.
The Easy T is a semi-fitted woven top with a dolman sleeve. I call it a “pancake pattern”, because it really is that simple. The only difference between the front and back pattern piece is the neckline. I recommend a flowing, drapey fabric for your first Easy T. Using a fabric like rayon challis or crepe allows this top to show off your shape, while still skimming over bumps and lumps. If you use something stiffer, like quilting cotton, this garment will look too boxy for most peoples’ tastes.
The Underarm Curve
After you’ve taken all your measurements and plotted a few points, you’ll use a Dressmaker’s Curve to create stitching lines on your pattern. Drafting patterns is equally an art and a science, and you’ll get better at recognizing workable, pleasing curves as you draft more and more patterns.
Here’s a short video on the Dressmaker’s Curve, in case you don’t know what it is!
One of the most important fitting areas of the Easy T is the underarm curve. This won’t be a “problem” for everyone, but it is an element of the pattern that can make or break your fit and your confidence in drafting. I’m going to discuss three underarm curve shapes and why different people might have different experiences while drafting their pattern.
When you watch the Easy T class, it’s me drafting my own pattern, but not everyone’s pattern will look this way. Instead of filming 3 different people drafting their patterns, I think these pictures and examples will suffice. Below, I have a hypothetical Easy T draft for the three scenarios, to get the full procedure for drafting the pattern, get the class here.
Curve #1 Average Build (Mallory’s Curve)
My bust is not significantly large in comparison to the rest of my body, and I have a broad ribcage and back. This means there is little distance between my bust point and my sleeve hem. When I use the Dressmaker’s curve to draw my underarm curve, I can draw the line in one pass using the “sleeve curve” part of the ruler. This is the easiest underarm curve to draft.
Group member, Toni, posted that she was drafting and sewing her Easy T- and I noticed that her pattern looked a lot like mine. A very straightforward, short underarm curve.
Curve #2 Full Bust (Loni’s Curve)
If your bust measurement is large in comparison to the rest of your body, your bust point might sit much lower than the point in the first example. This means you’ll need to draw a few separate lines and blend them together. One pass with the curve won’t do the trick. It could cause you to have a “batwing” effect. And while some people might not mind the batwing look- it can make your shirt look bulky, frumpy, and worst of all, cause excess fabric to get caught above your bust line as you move.
Loni’s curve needs to go straight up from her bust point for a few inches toward her underarm, then curve to meet her sleeve.
Group member Loni was the real inspiration for this blog post, and I coached her a bit on her underarm curve through the magic of technology. Loni blogged about her first experience with the Easy T on her website, HavinSewMuchFun.com.
Curve #3 Smaller Body with Broad Shoulders (Zede’s Curve)
Zede has a full bust for her size, but she also has broad shoulders. So, her bust point was lower and her sleeve hem was farther away horizontally. Once again, we don’t want the batwing look, or the frumpy feel. For her curve, we go flat for a few inches from sleeve hem to underarm curve, and the curve down toward the bust curve.
The main pice of advice is that it’s ok to draft a “flat line” for part of your underarm curve. Your sleeve width was defined by your largest arm measurement, so you shouldn’t be cutting yourself short on sleeve room, if you measured correctly.
Drafting for YOUR Body
I want you to take a close look at your pattern as you draft it, and make the decision about how to draft your curve. Leave any preconceptions you have about your body and pattern alterations behind. Drafting is not just about numbers on their own- it’s about proportion. You may have a “full bust” and wear a relatively large bra size, but if your shoulders and arms are of a similar proportion, you might end up drafting curve number 1- which is what I drafted, and I definitely fall in the small bust camp. Work with your pattern and get your ideas from the points you plot, and you should get an accurate fit!
You can take the Easy T class and have the lessons forever and always! Sign up here!
Have you made an Easy T? Tell us about it!